Merida is heaving with great restaurants and bars, check out our Food and Restaurant Guide below so you’re only going to the tried and tested.
Oliva 4.0 out of 5.0 stars4.0
The review:
🎖️Appetisers for the win🏆
I thought the Provola (cheese fried cheese) was the hero meal, but the missus thought it was the polpette (meatballs). We agreed the lasagna fritta needed a kick of spice. Overall, the appetisers were downright tasty😋, and the mains could have used a little more oomph!
The portion sizes were pretty good. The staff were great and spoke English well!
I personally would dine here again, but the prices are a tad expensive.
My advice? Dine here with friends and go to town on them appetisers!
Catrin 5.0 out of 5.0 stars5.0
The review:
🍽️Came for the food, stayed for the bumping music🎶
The complimentary chips and 4 very different salsas were a great start to the meal and it really only got better from there.
Pumpkin flower empanadas: Loved the avocado for cutting through the crispy and cheesy Empanadas. This appetiser was nice, ‘the calm before the taste storm’ that is to come.
Gaoneras w/bone marrow: If the crispy cheese and beef fillet isn’t enough, the baked bone marrow will have you swooning! I can not recommend this enough.
Chicken skewers: This came out good. Veggies were the hero here. I love it when something simple is done well.
Pork belly BBQ: This was a miss for us. It was the salsa verde. We knew going in that it would be there we just didn’t know the Pork belly would be smothered in it. As I like to provide solutions: I wonder if the sauce could be provided on the side so the customer can add as they see fit? Otherwise, the pork belly itself was cooked well – the green salsa’s tangy-spicy flavours threw us.
Catrin cookie: I LOVED THIS! A cookie that is half peanut butter half chocolate chip with vanilla ice cream and berry jam. What?!
What we ordered:
Everything above, plus:
x3 Limonada
x3 Margarita
Total: 1,299 Pesos (~$65 US)
Atmosphere:
After reading the reviews
I knew I wanted to try this place, the first night we tried and it was full so we came back the next day for a late lunch – it was well worth it. The real treat here is the music and the beautiful art. The outdoor area has a stage and fantastic mural. If you are on a tight schedule, I suggest booking beforehand. We want to return so I can try the other tacos!
Ps. We went back to try the other tacos, and we were not disappointed! I suggest the Black pork tacos – flavors were just spot on. Looking for a snack? Look no further than Muslitos fuego or Esquite Catrin.
🏆The real winner of our return was Esquite Catrin which is a play on Mac n cheese🏆
Cuna 5.0 out of 5.0 stars5.0
The review:
Freshly baked pan dulce: Simple. Sweet. Quickly provided and warm!
French toast: lovely presentation and delicious! Fluffy, great portion size, and the Grilled 🍍 stole the show.
Gratin chicken enchiladas: Flavourful! We Highly recommend. Each enchilada is packed with 🐔. With a nice spicy kick, the green salsa is spot on!
What we ordered:
x2 Latte
x1 Cappuccino
x1 Chicken Enchilada
x1 French Toast
Total: $495 Pesos (~$25 US)
Atmosphere:
This is a great brunch spot; highly recommended!
The 🎶 was good, the staff was attentive, and the their English was really good. I thought the décor inside was charming, and the spacing was very well done. There was a sense of intimacy.
The décor outside is equally great. The only downside to eating outside – in fact, my only criticism for this restaurant – would be the car traffic nearby.
Luckily, it is nearly drowned out by the music. Definitely the best breakfast/Brunch place we ate at in Merida.
Must try dishes in Merida:
Cochinita Pibil
Pork marinated in citrus juices and seasoned with achiote paste from the annatto seed and wrapped in a banana leaf. The dish is traditionally slow cooked in a fire pit in the ground.
Panuchos
A fried tortilla stuffed with beans and topped with shredded turkey, cabbage, picked red onion, avocado and pickled jalapeños.
Don’t forget your camera or cell phone. There is so much to see! Remember there is a $45 pesos ($2 US) camcorder usage fee.
The Yucatan, of all the places in Mexico, feels like the safest place to drive because of its flat topography – long straight highways, w/no hills, makes for easy navigation. Just be sure to check the distance and time it will take to get there! So, if you prefer to drive, we suggest visiting the ruins in the morning for two reasons: you can avoid the heat and sun, and it will be the only time you can take photos free of inadvertent photo-bombers.
Bring, Bring, BRING the essentials: a bottle of water, a cap, sunscreen and insect repellent, wear comfortable shoes and light clothes (this last point is very important – we visited Dec/Jan timeframe and it was hot & humid).
Going as a family? Bring snacks or even a picnic basket full of goodies! In every site we visited, there was plenty of space for you to claim a spot and enjoy the view. Think you will feel self-conscious? That’s OK! We saw several locals (some families, a few couples) doing this, and I was mad I didn’t think of this. You won’t be alone.
Bring your swim gear and a towel. Why? There will be Cenotes nearby (think a fresh water swimming hole), because there are literally thousands in the Merida (or Greater Yucatan) region. Planning a day-trip? You can beat the heat by factoring the distance/location of a few cenotes on the way to (or back from) a site.
Here are the top archaeological sites in Merida to visit:
Mayapan
Entrance Fee: $45 pesos
Honestly, best to
visit this one if you are the type to learn by touching or interacting with the
things. We loved it! We did A LOT of climbing and exploring (3 pyramids, 1
round temple, and a temple dedicated to fisherman). The best part was the
photos we were able to take on top of the pyramids! We suggest you get the
on-site tour guide – they turn a 45min aimless walkabout into a 90min lesson
about the indigenous peoples (i.e. the Olmec, Maya, Zapotec, Teotihuacan, and
Mixtec), their culture, and their architectural styles. This place was the most
overlooked by tourists. In our 90 minutes there, there was a total of 8 other
people!
Castillo de Kukulkán:
As the name suggests this pyramid is a tribute to the feathered snake god Kukulcan. In fact, the only real difference from the one you will see in Chichen Itzá is the overall size – this one’s much smaller. There are two other temple/pyramids you get to climb. One was used for ritualistic sacrifice and the other was used solely by the high priest for ceremonial requests such as beseeching Chaac the Mayan rain god for fertile lands and water.
The round temple
located here was initially, like most archaeological sites, thought to be an
observatory or dedication to the stars. However, it now considered a small
sanctuary of sorts. Aside from pillars and roofless building, there is more to
see like murals, frescos and carvings of Chaac.
Have a bit of free time, and want an enjoyable 6-8hr day trip? Mayan Ruins and Cenotes w/Antonio will be unforgettable AirBnB Experience! Just bring your gear and relax because transport, drinks snacks, and lunch is included.
Chichen Itzá
Entrance fee: $500 pesos (~$25 US) per person [Mexican Citizens get in for free on Sundays].
There is also a $45 pesos ($2 US) Camcorder fee. Roughly 45 – 60 min to see everything, but with guide expect 2-3hrs.
This archaeological site was
nominated as one of the new 7 wonders of the world! As you can imagine, everyone wants to see why that’s the case. As
such, this place is crazy packed – with both tourists and desperate vendors.
It’s good to keep the below tips in mind:
Tip # 1: get there ASAP (especially on Sundays). The site opens at 8am and there was a line when we got there at 7:30am. This advice is for taking pictures of the temples and pyramid with far fewer people around! Once it opens you can expect 15-20mins of peopleless photos.
Tip # 2: Get a guide! There is so much information and sights to take in. There will be guides (private, English speakers) making themselves available there. However, sometimes the best option is to do your research beforehand and come with a guide (AirBnB Experience was our choice).
Tip # 3: You will walk along a path leading to a clearing, and the Kukulcan pyramid. Your instinct will be to start taking photos immediately, but if you go around to the opposite end you will get better lighting, and less people (especially if you followed the first tip), because they will be too busy snapping photos to realize every other sides is less cluttered!
There is so much to see and
learn about what was once a great Mayan city. Our tour guide was a great help
in that regard. He explained the significance of the jaguar, owl, bat, and gods
venerated by the Maya. He also pointed out the many carvings that can be seen
on the pillars of the temple of warriors and the ‘ritualistic game’ of getting
a pelota (ball) into a ring/hoop using only your hip and shoulder – played by
the esteemed warriors – the victors were
beheaded as sacrifice to the Gods! Gnarly right?!
A day long process:
Kukulcan is the Mayan
feathered snake god. The Kukulcan temple, a 30-meter high pyramid, was
constructed in a specific way, and for a specific reason. To inform the high
priest (or upper class) when it was time to prepare for the next harvest. On
March 21st (Spring Equinox), as the sun sets, it hit the pyramid in
such a way that it would cast a shadow – in the shape of a small triangle –
along each step of the staircase. The snake’s body was from the pyramid’s top
all the way down to the sculpted snake heads at the base; completing Heaven
descent to Earth.
For what purpose:
Imagine a time when the masses
new little about science and nature, or lacked access to Google! If you could
tell the masses when the solar or lunar eclipse would occur and/or that it will
rain tomorrow, and will due so for the next three months; how would those people
see/treat you? So you spend years building a structure designed to tell you
just that!
Cenote Sagrado de Chichen
Itza:
There is not much to see as it
is cordoned off – you won’t be able to see the bottom due to the fence. It is
huge! It is murky! It is dying! We had a guide for all the sites of Chichen
Itzá, and was told thousands of objects were found inside: bones of small
children and animals; pottery; and other ritualistic pieces. Clearly, this is
not your ‘bring a picnic and go swimming at your local watering hole’ kind of
event. Why come? Although it has been ravaged by time, it is steeped in
history. At one time, this was the main water source for 30,000+ people! Take
one look, and I think you will agree the cultural significance is grand.
Uxmal
Entrance fee: $495 pesos (~$25 US) per person [Mexican Citizens get in for free on Sundays].
There is a $45 pesos ($2 US) Camcorder fee. The site opens at 8am and is roughly 1hr away from Merida. I suggest you get there as early as possible. Roughly 45 – 60 min to see everything, but with a guide expect 1-2 hrs. We finished our guided tour in 90 mins.
On-site Guided tour: $800
Pesos (English) and $700 Pesos (Spanish) – there are 3 to 5 other language
options. Personally, I think the service is worth it. We got Antonio (Highly
recommended); he has been providing tours for 30+ years. He speaks Mayan,
Spanish, English, German, and Dutch. He was also very knowledgeable,
personable, and helped us understand the significance of many of the
hieroglyphics and structures.
The Tree of Life:
Is a very important concept in
Mayan culture, and is best represented by the Ceiba tree – a tall tree with a
straight trunk, buttressed roots, and widespread horizontal crown supported
(usually) by 4 branches. The branches represent the 4 cardinal directions, the
roots to the underwold, and the crown to heaven. All this is important because
the Nunnery Quadrangle, a 4-building structure, also represents a man-made tree
of life!
Pirámide del adivino (Pyramid
of the Magician):
Is an odd duck when comparing
them to the other pyramids we’ve seen! For instance, the walls/layers are
rounded or oval; not square in shape. The pyramid consists of 4 level
consisting of 5 unconnected temples within. Overall, it is a 131ft (40m) tall
stepped pyramid.
Boot shaped stones & the
Mayan Arch:
Once you round the Pyramid of the Magician, but before you climb the stairs leading to the Nunnery Quadrangle, I would like you to sift through the pile of large stones scattered about. Take notice the long L-shaped stones.
Why is it important?
The Mayan Arch – with it the Mayan people were able to build structures on top of itself! The pile of stones are important because through them most – if not all – of what you see was constructed: The Governor’s Palace, House of turtles, and Nunnery Quadrangle. In fact, when climbing up to explore the Nunnery Quadrangle, keep in mind that the vaulted platform you walk upon is man-made! The natural height was the ground the pyramid sits upon.
I’d say it is busier than
Mayapan, but no where near as busy as Chichen Itza. That is a shame because
this place is far and away the best of the three options! So, what makes Uxmal
the site to visit? It has the best of what both have to offer; the
interactivity of Mayapan and the scope of Chichen Itza. However, what sets it
apart will be your walk with nature! Mother Earth has left its mark here; the
trees both inside and surrounding the site add a sense of mystique to your trek
by obscuring your view. The humidity in this region causes plants to grow
everywhere – even sprout within cracks in the buildings themselves. The fallen
branches and dead leaves have mixed with the weeds and caked dirt to all but
devour the base of one of the two pyramids. Suffice to say, this particular
archaeological site is yet to be fully excavated – only 5% is accessible to the
public.
More importantly, there are
more carvings found here, and they are far better preserved. The different
levels of elevation – due to the Mayan ingenuity when it comes to making
man-made foundations/structures – will provide different perspectives of the
two pyramids and ballcourt. While standing on the sacbebs (man-made paved roads)
supporting the Govenor’s Palace, you will feel both awed by the ‘House of the
turtles’ and equal to the ‘Pyramid of the Magician’.
So, which one should you choose?
Having gone to the three major archaeological sites (with a tour guide), I would like to help you choose which to visit; if let’s say you only have time for one:
1st Go to Mayapan,
because you can climb the pyramids and interact with the site. The pyramids are
the highest point as far as the eye can see – in all directions – you will feel
on top of the world!
2nd Go to Uxmal,
because it’s gorgeous – there is lush trees almost swallowing the city. You can
go inside a few of the structures, there are many angles for fantastic photos,
and there is a dynamite chocolate museum across the highway.
3rd Go to Chichen
Itza, because the Kukulcan Pyramid and Temple of the Warriors is a sight to
behold. However, it will have the most people; there are no vendors within
Uxmal or Mayapan. And you will have the least amount of interaction with the
structures – everything is cordoned off. Don’t get me wrong, Chichen Itza is
great! It just loses a few points for me, because it’s the road most travelled.
There are thousands of
archaeological sites in the Yucatan Peninsula (which consists of Mexico,
Belize, and Guatemala). We, of course, will only concern ourselves with the
many sites located near Merida.
Unfortunately, only a few were open because of the COVID-19 Pandemic. We
like you to be aware of the many site you can visit, and why you should.
Dzibilchaltun:
Roughly 30 minutes from central Merida; the closest Mayan archaeological site. Expect to take 1-2hrs to explore. The 9-metre deep cenote Xlaca is also nearby.
Coba:
We were told it is a journey and a half to get to (half way between Chichen Itza and Tulum), and is totally worth it if you have a flare for the adventurous. Why? It has two lagoons; a long winding sacbeob (mayan paved roads) you must traverse; several Pyramids, including the tallest (Nohoch Mul), in the Yucatan at 42 meters; and crocodiles. All this is under the backdrop of a lush Mayan Jungle. Yes! An archaeologist’s dream. The downside? It’s near Cancun so an extremely long day-trip from Merida!
Ek Balam:
Two hours from Central Merida. Entrance fee: $495 pesos (~$25 US). Expect to take 2 hrs to explore. The takeaway? The Acropolis or the ‘Black Jaguar’ figure that guards the entrance to the 32 meter tall pyramid! There is also a Cenote (X-Canche) nearby, and this site is within an hour’s drive from Chichen Itza.
Puuc Route:
More a round-trip series of archaeological sites – Uxmal, Kabah, Sayil, Xlapak and Labna. You can also tack on Two Haciendas (Yaxcopoil & Ocil) and an extensive cave (Loltun) system. Truly, the ultimate Mayan cultural day trip.
Have you visited any archaeological sites in Merida, which was your favourite?
Merida has a reputation as one of the expat havens on Mexico and as such we were expecting the prices to be a little higher and we weren’t disappointed in that regard.
It was definitely one of the more expensive places we’ve been in Merida and in all honesty not all that it’s hyped up to be. It could that Covid was impacting our experience or we’d just been spoilt with so many other Mexican gems before getting here but we left with a little feeling of ‘meh’.
However there is plenty to do just outside the city, here are our highlights for Merida:
ALL of the ruins but in particular Uxmal and Mayapan. Chichen Itza was impressive but a little too busy for us.
Cenotes, cenotes, cenotes. I mean what’s not to like.
And…. that’s about it! A lot of the museums and galleries were closed and to be honest we found Merida a little boring, which seems to be an unpopular opinion 😬
Below are our costs for 28 days in Merida for two people, in USD.
We always feel a little bad when we don’t love a city we’ve stayed in (it’s actually only happened once with another very popular spot – San Miguel de Allende).
We are extremely grateful to be here and still had a lovely time but want to keep it real and share when something or somewhere wasn’t what we expected or what it’s hyped to be.